For as long as I can remember, I have had this dream of visiting Japan. It might be because my dad had gone there on a solo trip back in the day and had spoken highly of it when I was a kid. As an adult, I grew increasingly fond of Japanese cuisine (you all know about my love of sushi and ramen). I also developed a soft spot for Japanese culture from what I witnessed in books and films. My brother’s accounts of his recent trips had now started to give me some major FOMO. Thankfully, my husband Jerry shared this admiration, so Japan quickly went to the top of our must-visit list.
Jerry and I had spent all of our credit card points on our two-week honeymoon in Spain and Portugal in 2017, so we needed to take some time to rebuild our bank of points. In late 2018, we found a great deal on United Airlines (70k points roundtrip per person, which is on par with some domestic flights) for travel over Thanksgiving break, and we went for it!
10 Day Itinerary
I will be writing more in-depth posts about each city we visited with lots of (hopefully) helpful tips, but will dedicate this first one to the overall 10-day trip, which we broke down as:
- 2 days and nights in Tokyo
- 1 day and night in Hakone
- 3 days and 2 nights in Kyoto
- 1 day and night in Osaka
- 3 days and 2 nights in Tokyo
Day 1: Tokyo
Recommended Hotel: Park Hyatt Tokyo
If you arrive at Tokyo in the afternoon like we did, spend some time at the airport to pick up your pre-reserved Japan Rail Pass and WiFi device. Take the train to the closest station to your hotel from the airport.
Harajuku
After checking in and freshening up, head to Harajuku and take a stroll through the shops in the area. Walk over to the Afuri close by for some amazing ramen that you will order on a vending machine before getting seated. Walk or train it back to your hotel and call it a night.
Day 2: Tokyo
Shibuya
Wake up bright and early to explore Shibuya. Have breakfast at Komeda’s Coffee (we recommend the tamago sando (Japanese egg sandwich) and Shiro-Noir (warm crunchy Danish topped with soft-serve ice cream) with coffee and chocolate milk (again topped with ice cream) to drink.
Walk around Shibuya through the crazy crowds crossing the road in every direction. Explore the stores like Magnet, Shibuya 109 and the nearby Starbucks with cool views of the Shibuya Crossing. Don’t expect Starbucks to have matcha tea (WHAT?!).
Shinjuku: Robot Restaurant
In the late afternoon, head over to Shinjuku for a very tourist-trap-y but necessary experience at the Robot Restaurant. We recommend reserving your tickets in advance and choosing the first row. Even though there are only 3 rows of seating, the first one has more legroom and better access to the craziness you are about to experience. The show itself is difficult to describe, but let’s say there are giant robots fighting giant organic and non-organic creatures, lots of people dancing and fighting in crazy costumes, loud music and sound effects and lasers and lights all over the place. Have a few beers before and during the show to make it even more memorable!
If you avoided eating at the Robot Restaurant (good decision, by the way), you must be hungry right about the time you leave the show. Walk through a tiny park to get to Cha Cha Hana, an unforgettable Kyoto-style restaurant close by with a wonderfully cozy ambience with traditional seating on the floor, fantastic food, and amazing service. Take your shoes off before you head upstairs to be seated. Have some sake and/or a cocktail, and order the uni and fish roe donburi with delicious Japanese pickles. Practice your Japanese skills with the staff, and you may be rewarded with a delicious complimentary dessert!
If you’re up for some night life, there are so many bars in the area to choose from. If your jet lag has caught up with you and you need your rest before the early morning, call it a night and head back to the hotel.
Day 3: Hakone
Recommended Hotel: Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa
Wake up early to pack. Make sure to pack essentials for a single night in a carry on, and have the hotel concierge ship the rest of your bags to your hotel in Kyoto, where you will be going the night after Hakone.
Go to the Shinjuku Station and purchase your Hakone Freepass and tickets to Hakone on the Romancecar. Make sure to ask for tickets on the right side of the train, so that you can see breathtaking views of Mount Fujiama (pending weather and visibility).
Grab a to-go-meal and canned hot beverage from the 7-Eleven by your platform (you will thank me later, as these refrigerated meals in Japan are better than what’s served at many sit-down restaurants in the US). Get on the train and enjoy the ride to Hakone!
Once you arrive at the Hakone Station, take your carry on bag to the baggage transportation service in the Station and have them ship it to your hotel. Now with your load lightened, quickly go and stand in line for the bus to the Gora Station (due to typhoons earlier in 2019, the train tracks were damaged, so this is the best way to get to Gora). Enjoy the lovely ride uphill with amazing views of tree-lined mountains below.
Gora Park
Once at the Gora Station, either walk or take the Hakone Tozan cable car up to the Hakone Gora Park. This small but beautiful park houses the adorable Craft House, where we recommend you buy as many souvenirs as you can carry, including handmade jewelry, postcards, candy, ceramics, and more.
Hakone Ropeway
Take the Hakone Tozan cable car to the Hakone Ropeway, which your Freepass will allow you to use for free. From the Ropeway, get ready to enjoy breathtaking views, including views of the Owakudani sulfur fields below and an up close look at Fuji San, weather permitting. This will be a moment you’ll later recall as a highlight of your trip.
At the Owakudani stop, you may get off to take a hike near the sulfur fields and try a black egg. If you don’t have the time, get on the next stretch of the Ropeway with your Freepass toward your Lake Ashi Pirate Ship.
Lake Ashi
Take the Pirate Ship for a lovely cruise down to the other side of the Lake, where the Hakone Shrine and famous Tori gates await you. Take some shots for the Gram, and explore the area a bit on foot.
Hakone Yuryo
Book a visit to this relaxing onsen in advance of your trip. I recommend an afternoon time slot in a private room, since by now you’ve had a long day of activities and can use an hour in a hot spring bath. Make sure to arrive a few minutes in advance of your appointment, check in, and follow the card of instructions to take on your first journey at an onsen.
Hyatt Regency
After the onsen, take the bus back up to Gora and from there, either walk, take the Tozan cable car or take a cab to the hotel. Make sure to check timetables so you don’t miss the last bus or cable car. Otherwise, cabs are not so easy to come by in the evenings at the Gora station, and you will be forced to walk uphill for a long time in the dark.
The hotel offers an onsen of its own, as well as some delicious food at its restaurant. After checking in and relaxing in your room, change into hotel-provided yukata and head on down to enjoy dinner and drinks downstairs.
